Drink Count:22 Wines Tasted
5 Wines Drunk
1 Calvados
1 William Pear Brandy
It doesn't get light out in the northern part of France till rather late in the morning. When my alarm went off at 8am, it was completely dark outside my window and I wasn't sure where I was. In all honesty, I didn't know if it was the jet lag or the amount of champagne consumed the night before which made me rather confused. Realizing that there wasn't much time to shower and get downstairs, I tried to take one of the most awkward showers with no shower curtain- a skill I mastered by the end of the trip. I'll give a play by play on how to take a shower and not flood the place in the near future.5 Wines Drunk
1 Calvados
1 William Pear Brandy
After a very quick breakfast of bread and jam, we started loading up the cars to take off to Saint-Bris. But before I sat in a car for another two hours, I had to run around and snap some shots of the area.
Our first stop of the day was with Jacky Renard in Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, an oddity in Burgundy due to the fact the white wines are made from Sauvignon blanc and Sauvignon gris. Having only tasted one Saint Bris before, I was completely psyched to try another one. But first, some scenery:
Pulling up Jacky's driveway, you just knew this was going to be a real hands on producer. We were greeted by a big black dog, a cat, his wife and himself. The couple led us downstairs to where their tanks were and the tasting table was set up. Jacky quickly started opening bottles and I was fortunate enough to get a sound bite of the echo. You know us crazy Americans. We started with his Aligote and went through the line of Petit Chablis, Chablis, Saint Bris, Bourgogne Rouge and Irancy. Then the couple were eager for us to try the 06 reds in the barrel. We were more than happy to taste. The 05's were good, but the 06's were incredible. Trying the wine was almost as much fun as watching it get siphoned out of the barrel.
Following the barrel samples, we went back to the tasting table and re-tried wines at our leisure. The whites that I originally thought were sharp had opened up and became much more expressive. There were snacks out for us as well which neither Jacky nor his wife would let us forget about. I ate as much cheese and nuts as I could and then quickly tried to look up how to say "I'm full" in French. Eventually, we made our way back upstairs to say our goodbyes and being my usual self, I couldn't sit still so wandered off to play with the dogs and take pictures of cherry fruit trees. Jacky was just an absolute sweetheart and I couldn't help but give him the double cheek kiss when I bid my farewell.
Then it's off to Domaine St. Martin in in Marsannay, but first a quick stop outside Dijon to hit up the Wal-Mart of France. This place was just huge and had everything from auto parts to food. What the French consider their regular groceries, we consider them to be gourmet. I think Stuart and Nate loaded up the most with salt, duck confite and mustard while I was just so overwhelmed that I wound up stocking up on chocolates. Our pit stop lasted all of 20 minutes and then we were off again.
Martin Bart was the first eccentric wine maker I got to meet on this adventure and I loved every minute he went on a tangent about the lunar cycle. I felt bad for Stuart since he had to try and keep up with his French and then translate it for us. What the most thrilling thing about meeting Martin was that even though we didn't speak the same language, somehow how or other we just clicked. I got completely wrapped up in his passion for the vines that he tended to and the wine making process. Here are some of the tidbits we learned:
* When the vines are flowering is when the wines in the cellar start to show well.
* They try to rack the wines when it's a low moon, cold weather and no rain.
* Wood that was cut during the right time during the lunar cycle would hold up better to weather and insects. This explains why there are wooden buildings and furnishings which are in great condition after hundreds of years. Since wood is no longer cut in tune with the lunar cycle, things aren't made to last as long. I feel this way about most products made today.
* Hair grows in conjunction with the lunar cycle and he has a friend who gets his hair cut depending on where the moon is.
I'm not sure if it was the moon, Martin himself or the wines, but everything was tasting wonderful. I just can't wait to get some of my favorites in the store and for Martin to visit the US very soon. As of now, I have wine crushes on everyone.
By the time we left Domaine Bart it was pitch black out and we went to check into the hotel Le Home in Beaune. The hotel was absolutely adorable and was completely happy to be staying in the same place for a few nights. I got the room over the barn and it was wall to wall carpeting. Really quaint and am upset with myself for not taking pictures, but here's a link to their website http://www.lehome.fr/.
Once checked in we re-convened for dinner at Caveau des Arches which was in walking distance from the hotel. Figuring we would eat and drink a great deal, thought it would be best to walk some of it off. The restaurant is a two fork Micheline rated restaurant located in the vaults of a fortified bridge from the 16th century. They're best known for their simple Burgundian cuisine and vast wine list. Too bad for me they were not well versed in the art of Tofu, but as I will learn there isn't even a word for it in the French language. This was my first true dinning experience in France and I think I was a bit giddy. The wine list was past around the table, bottles and food were ordered and the true French meal began.
I never knew there were so many courses! I fell short on a few, but definitely made up for it in salads, cheese and desserts. The wine was the most intimidating part of the meal, but when the fromage was wheeled around the table, it was overwhelming. There were so many to choose from and all looked good. It took me no time to choose dessert though...how can you pass up on creme brulee? There was also the after dinner drink, then the after dinner coffee or tea. Everyone ordered coffee and I ordered calvados, but then our waitress came over and offered us a round of drinks on them, and I have a hard time saying no to a free drink so then joined the group in having some pear brandy. We all had a great time getting to know each other over the course of the 4 hour meal. Not to mention there was a group of Burgundy wine lovers on the other side of the restaurant making quite a racket and singing the song of the Burgundian Wine Fan Club (I can't remember the real name of the international group) which involved a lot of "la la's" and hand waving. I really wanted to run over there and join in the fun, but was still trying to be on good behavior.
By the time we left it was well after midnight and although I was completely exhausted, I really was thankful for the walk home. Gave me some time to work off all that was eaten and drunk. Too bad it wasn't enough, cause the next morning...total discombobulation.
* They try to rack the wines when it's a low moon, cold weather and no rain.
* Wood that was cut during the right time during the lunar cycle would hold up better to weather and insects. This explains why there are wooden buildings and furnishings which are in great condition after hundreds of years. Since wood is no longer cut in tune with the lunar cycle, things aren't made to last as long. I feel this way about most products made today.
* Hair grows in conjunction with the lunar cycle and he has a friend who gets his hair cut depending on where the moon is.
I'm not sure if it was the moon, Martin himself or the wines, but everything was tasting wonderful. I just can't wait to get some of my favorites in the store and for Martin to visit the US very soon. As of now, I have wine crushes on everyone.
By the time we left Domaine Bart it was pitch black out and we went to check into the hotel Le Home in Beaune. The hotel was absolutely adorable and was completely happy to be staying in the same place for a few nights. I got the room over the barn and it was wall to wall carpeting. Really quaint and am upset with myself for not taking pictures, but here's a link to their website http://www.lehome.fr/.
Once checked in we re-convened for dinner at Caveau des Arches which was in walking distance from the hotel. Figuring we would eat and drink a great deal, thought it would be best to walk some of it off. The restaurant is a two fork Micheline rated restaurant located in the vaults of a fortified bridge from the 16th century. They're best known for their simple Burgundian cuisine and vast wine list. Too bad for me they were not well versed in the art of Tofu, but as I will learn there isn't even a word for it in the French language. This was my first true dinning experience in France and I think I was a bit giddy. The wine list was past around the table, bottles and food were ordered and the true French meal began.
I never knew there were so many courses! I fell short on a few, but definitely made up for it in salads, cheese and desserts. The wine was the most intimidating part of the meal, but when the fromage was wheeled around the table, it was overwhelming. There were so many to choose from and all looked good. It took me no time to choose dessert though...how can you pass up on creme brulee? There was also the after dinner drink, then the after dinner coffee or tea. Everyone ordered coffee and I ordered calvados, but then our waitress came over and offered us a round of drinks on them, and I have a hard time saying no to a free drink so then joined the group in having some pear brandy. We all had a great time getting to know each other over the course of the 4 hour meal. Not to mention there was a group of Burgundy wine lovers on the other side of the restaurant making quite a racket and singing the song of the Burgundian Wine Fan Club (I can't remember the real name of the international group) which involved a lot of "la la's" and hand waving. I really wanted to run over there and join in the fun, but was still trying to be on good behavior.
By the time we left it was well after midnight and although I was completely exhausted, I really was thankful for the walk home. Gave me some time to work off all that was eaten and drunk. Too bad it wasn't enough, cause the next morning...total discombobulation.
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